back to Karadeniz(Black Sea) 2 years after

Due to the problem of my eeepc, so I can not write in Chinese on computer anymore, but still have something to say, so please pardon my English.


Anyway, ASUS Rock Solid promise for quality now just become Egg hitting Rock.



T-RA-B-ZON, it sounds almost like a powerful peom.


This is my Trabzon 2 years ago. The music of Erkin Koray I can still hear sometimes.


Few people stay in Trabzon more than 2 days, and come to here mainly for 2 reasons: Sumela monastery and Aya Sofia church. Due to its far out position and unstable weather, no western sunseekers or tour groups will be crowd in here.


But this most prosperous city along Black Sea have lingered in my mind forever, since 2 years ago. I revisited many places I have been, some changed, but the passion and joyfulness this city give me never fade away.



Last time I thought all Turkish people are kind and friendly, but this time when I travelled to many other regions in Turkey then back to Trabzon, I realized there is no other place or people like here, so relaxed, so charming. No ”money money” poor children, no hassles of big city. It is as simple as an village, as energtic as a metrpolition, it is a city by the SEA.


Big breast hot chicks walking side by side with melancholy old men, humid air with sun or rain. There is mountain, there is sea, color of blue and green melting together.


You can taste the best ice cream, sip Turkish coffee in bohimia coffee house, and here you have the biggest bread in whole Turkey, no to mention cherry and hazelnut, they are original from here.



For me, surprise and miracle happened here this time.


After failing to apply Iran visa in Erzrum, I decided to visit Trabzon, just want to see the place meaned so much for me 2 years ago, and escape the southern heat.


When I were in tourist office and got  the city map, suddenly I saw the address of Georgia consulate, next day I follow tha map to there just try to ask if it is possible to apply visa here. The answer was, there is a visa on arrival at the border, no need to apply in advance.


I always got very easily naïve and curious, so I suddenly decide to buy a bus ticket directly from Trabzon to Tiflis, the capital of Georgia. This is the first surprise, unprepared journey again.


The miracle is: saving photos from damege.


After giving up too heavy DV(sending back to Taiwan), my eeepc declared the end, the screen became totally blue, can not do anything. Then these days I found my memory card of DC also got a big problem, it cant not show pics in the computer, so I can not store them into my hard disc.  


This morning I go to local photo store to ask for help, the boss tried many times then finally used an recovery software to save most of pics, to get the raid of the tragedy like last time!


There is even the second miracle: I applied Iran visa successfully.


There is also an address of Iran consulate on the map, but when I went there the other day, though Iran flag hanging high in the sky, but the house looked like under construction, no lives exsist.


This morning after saving pic, I took a walk to relax, just passed through the consulate, I found the door wide open, so I went inside to see if there is anything. The worker driving a truck said ”decoration!”  then he kindly took me a ride to the ”real” address of Iran consulate.


Not waiting so long, the official agree to give me a visa for 53 euro. So the internary now is totally come a change within few days. I will be in Georgia this weekend or next Monday, then Armenia, Iran then back to Turkey to take my bicycle back(I have left him and most of my luggages under Mt. Ararat). Would be back to Turkey in Sep., then go south. So, let’s see!


backstreet of Trabzon


Note: There are Iran, Georgia, Russia consulates in Trabzon,ask the people in tourist office or search on the map you can easily find them. And there are also regular buses for Georgia, Armenia and ferryboat for Russia, Trabzon is so great a place to cross the border!



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  • Joy
  • It's just great to be on the way!
    Good Luck!!
  • labelda
  • good luck

    wish you can come back on time.
    take care yourself!
  • tzuche
  • so you are now heading for Iran, Wooow

  • yes will be there early Sep.

    tzewu 於 2009/08/04 20:42 回覆

  • 虹在天涯
  • How exciting! You are going to Caucasus! But I wonder, can you get Armenian visa at the border? Also, I remember that the border between Armenia and Turkey has been closed for a long time, traveling between Turkey and Armenia always need to go through Georgia. Or, things have changed now? And, will you travel to Azerbaijan?

    Good luck for your venture into the Caucasus (外高加索三小國)
  • as far as I know, it's the same case for Armenia just like Georgia, applying visa at the border. They just do the right thing finally: open to travellers all around the world. just 2 or 3 years ago, it's imppossible for me to visit through this way. and you know what, it's the multiple visa for one year, and duration is 360 days! of course I can't pass between Turkey and Armenia, so it's Gerogia-Amenia-Iran-Turkey.

    tzewu 於 2009/08/04 20:57 回覆

  • itchyfoot
  • i'm jealous, really. i've been reading some blogs people going through the middle east by bike which encourages me to get on road asap. have u found CS host to stay in Iran? i believe u definitely will meet lovely people, even they have politics crisis over there. anyway, people always say the Iranians are very friendly. have a good time there then. :D

    btw, here is a link(bike diaries) i've been reading for months. this english journalist is in the place near u, u might have chance to meet him on the road which will be interesting then.
  • it's no fun at all cycling in Iran, vast barren hill, long desert, trucks running through, highly polluted air...and extreme heat! I got sick again, so rest in Tabriz for few days, and the day after tomorrow comes "Ramazan"(Islam fasting, no food or drink until night), it will be hard to find things to eat, what a trip!

    tzewu 於 2009/08/20 21:25 回覆

  • itchyfoot
  • 囉唆一句
    i am a left-wing Guardian defender, not a fan of Telegraph.
    i know one one cares but i do,well... :P

    if u really meet him, ask him to buy u a beer then, haha...:D
  • BTW, Iran people are really nice, and well educated, more polite than their nighbor Turks. All in all, beside the weather and barren lands, it's a country well-maintained, and 100 times safer than "America"!

    tzewu 於 2009/08/20 21:30 回覆

  • itchyfoot
  • glad to hear good about Iran, though critics are saying they are goin back to the old times (this makes me worry). anyway, enjoy Iran as much as you can, you'll never if it would be the same when next time you are visiting.

    and any chance you are going to Pakistan? possible to obtain the visa?

    safe riding!
  • I will take train to Syria from Tehran early Sep., then going south, coz my final destination is Cairo, my flight ticket coming back to Taiwan have settleed down there...

    BTW, Tehran is the most terribly polluted and noisy city I've ever been, almost go crazy here!

    tzewu 於 2009/08/24 19:41 回覆

  • 菜頭
  • 子午大哥您好,
  • 你好:
    3. 如上所述,Trabzon的伊朗代表處機會很大。但當時他們代表處正在整修,辦公室遷到一個遠離市區的地方,若你到達當地,就先去跟旅遊服務中心的人問清楚地址在哪。
    4. 一個月單次進出。


    tzewu 於 2010/01/19 17:25 回覆


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